Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Ceduna & the Eyre Peninsula

Wednesday, the 26th & Thursday, the 27th

I've had a drive around Ceduna & there is a real mix of the old & the new. Very interesting housing, very old houses & then next door a relatively new brick home. What a contrast. The town is actually in a bay (Murat Bay) & has at least some protection from the open sea elements. If you look at a map you can see that the western side of the Eyre Peninsula is dotted with many Bays.

Exports from here by ship through the local port include Barley, Wheat, Salt & Gypsum. Fish is brought ashore from trawlers operating locally & transported mainly to Adelaide & interstate by truck. There is a Race Track on the outskirts of town I see where the next meeting is in a couple of weeks time. There is a Meteorological Station here along with a radar that is connected to the national grid for weather forecasting. The main building at the caravan park was the original Hospital of Ceduna. There are many old stone buildings around this area & as I've travelled through South Aussie I have noticed numerous old stone buildings in the country side, some in a good state others decaying in the fields.

Old Lutheran & Anglican churches are scattered in many some towns throughout the region. Most of these are all stone buildings & have been kept in good condition.

On Thursday we have had showers & some thunder & of course some wind! I had planned to move on today but ......... but, tomorrow will do! Slack again!

Friday, the 28th

Even though there were clouds scattered about I moved on to the Eyre Peninsula & headed to Streaky Bay. On the way I called in to the sleepy town of Smokey Bay which is renowned for its Oyster Farms. The caravan park at Streaky Bay has plenty of Qld registered vehicles (about a third) & there are a few Vets here as well. Similarly in Ceduna I met up with a couple of Vets one of whom was in SVN at the same time as yours truly.

This town is also in a Bay & the park actually faces north. There are some sporting fields nearby so TJ & Cassie can run free during our walks. Some of those in the park have been catching some fish but those set up have been catching crabs off the jetty. One lady over balanced & ended up in the drink, losing her phone, glasses & other personal items. She is going back tomorrow on the low tide to search for her gear.

You wouldn't believe it but, but, but............. it's WINDY!

Saturday, the 29th

Not sure how the lady went with her gear but a few came back with plenty of Sand Crabs.

I've had a good look around the town & out to a couple of Bays that are close by. There is still a bit of wind around but more to the point, today it is chilly. You can't win! Beside the Oyster Farms that dot the region there are grain silos situated in the town. Yep, more grain around here as well. There are about 8 oyster farmers here & it provides a good income to the town.

I'm not sure of the population but they have a Hospital here & the town is very tidy. The surrounding area is quite picturesque & from the high vantage points on the edge of the town it is really post card stuff particularly when you add the colour of the water.

Sunday, the 30th

I've moved on down the coast & am staying at Coffin Bay about 50km west of Port Lincoln. The road down traversed many grain fields with plenty of sheep & the odd sprinkling of cattle. The road followed the coast & there were many spectacular sights. Venus Bay was a pretty town & I could have easily stayed there for a few days.

Beside the road there were a number of Lakes inside the coastal sand dunes & I presume most or probably all of these were salt lakes.

Once again Oysters are produced here & along with fishing & tourism this seems to be the main income for the region. There are a few National Parks nearby & they appear to be popular attractions.

Monday, the 1st December

Across to Port Lincoln & once again more grain (wheat, barley & some canola), sheep & the odd sprinkling of cattle. There is a large port facility here with the export of grain & fish. There appears to be a reasonable industrial infrastructure here to support these industries.

The road north follows the coast & I visit Tumby Bay, Port Neil & Arno Bay before I make my way to Port Gibbon. Why "Port" Gibbon, I don't know as there is definitely no port facility here. I need to ask some questions. I've asked the questions & it appears that grain was exported from here (& Port Neil) by sailing ships (1908 - 1914) & the grain was gravitated down a chute from a cliff to a waiting landing craft & then transported out to the larger vessel (Ketch) anchored off shore. Very ingenious!

There are about a dozen homes spread about here & free camping is allowed & currently there are about 7 caravans/motor homes here. I wish I had found this place a few days earlier as I'm now starting to run out of time! There are loos provided & a shower shelter but you provide your own water & bucket. No power, so you need to be self sufficient in that area however there is a water supply point.

At Arno Bay there is a fish hatchery business & I'm told it is a thriving business.

After leaving Coffin Bay it became apparent that there is less rain here as the surrounds look fairly dry. A fellow tells me that the annual rainfall for Port Gibbon is 11 inches but on the other side of the mountain ridge line, to the west of here, they receive substantially more rain.

Tonight in the sky the moon (a quarter, facing upwards) has Jupiter & Venus (extremely bright)above it & it looks like a smiling face. Very interesting.

Tuesday, the 2nd

We've been for a bit of a drive & the desperates have spent an hour in the water & on the beach. There is a Sea Lion colony nearby & we'll go there this arvo. Even though the sun is out & there is a gentle breeze (note, breeze not wind) the air temperature is cool.

The Sea Lions were not to be found. I'm told they must have been out having a feed. I believed this, of course!

I did a trip up along the coast to Cowell by the dirt road (very corrigated in places) & checked out some of the local scenery. More grain, sheep, oysters, prawn trawlers & other fishing. Also a wind farm is nearby & can be recognised at night by the red flashing lights on top of the wind vanes. It has taken me a couple of days to actually sight the wind vanes as they are on the western side of the nearby range feature. I counted about 25 structures & because of their position they were only visible from right on the coast.

My neighbours went fishing this arvo & (eat your heart out) I've had a feed of fresh whiting fillets for dinner. Yummy..............

Nearby here there are some "bomb shelters" from Word War 2 & they were also set up to be used as communication listening posts for enemy naval signal traffic.

I only wish I found this place earlier!

The Nullabor

Friday, the 21st

I headed off only expecting to go a short distance but the places I had picked out were not suitable so I ended up 73km east of Norseman at the 10 Mile Rocks camping area. By night fall there were another 6 campers in the area, all spread out over the large area set aside. This was an uneventful afternoon drive.

Saturday, the 22nd

There was some early morning drizzle & there was limited visibility for the first hour but it soon lifted & the day was relatively fine however the wind started coming from the east & this was a far different senario than the weather forecast from the previous day. I had intended to visit the Eyre Telegraph Station & Eyre Bird Observatory, south of Cocklebiddy Roadhouse but I did not like the look of the dirt road & the overcast conditions so I gave it a miss.

The stretch between Balladonia & Caiguna has a stretch of 90 miles of complete straight road & it is the longest straight stretch of road in Australia. The heading of this road is about 2 degrees short of due East.

I headed for Moonera Tank camping area (I did not find a tank) & arrived in plenty of time to set up the sat TV to watch the footy (Aussie v NZ) from Brisbane. Pity about the result but in my humble opinion the best team on the night won.

Sunday, the 23rd Bold

Well!, Well! You guessed it, wind & light showers that eventually turned to rain. I stayed put. I was to find out a couple of days later that 43km to the west of me at Cocklebiddy Roadhouse they had 2 inches of rain on the Saturday night. A lazy day was had by all concerned. A sleep, watch the cricket, lunch, a sleep, watch TV, coffee etc & the desperates weren't much better. How will they survive when they get home?


Monday, the 24th

There was a heavy dew & fog in the morning so I was a bit slow in getting away, but at least it was fine.

About 43km further I came through the Madura Pass. We dropped from a plateau on to the coastal plains. This was something I had not anticipated & was quite surprised by. At Madura Pass there is another Roadhouse & I could not get over the number of "motel" type units that were at this property. I'm told there were about 140 units here & I'm yet to find out why so many. We stayed on the coastal plain for another 180+kms until we reached Eucla where we once again climbed on to the plateau. Eucla is on the WA side of the border & Border Village on the SA side. Both are small towns & that is being polite about the size.

I had picked out a couple of sites to camp but the first was not suitable (too early & too open i.e. no shade) & the second was full. There were 4 vans there & anymore would have made it a bit cramped. Both of these spots were on the coast line although both were at the top of 60 to 90 metre high cliffs. Very beautiful outlooks but signs were everywhere that the edges were unstable. Definitely not the place for the "desperates"!

I moved on to the Nullabor Roadhouse & treated myself to a good hot shower & dinner in the diner. The crumbed Whiting & salad was a top meal. Earlier in the day I had met up with an ex Army fellow & he was also at Nullabor & we had a chin wag over our travels through WA & the NT.

The Nullabor Plain is a flat area devoid of trees but it is dotted with small bushes no more that 2 feet high. The sunrise reminded me of the sunset at Derby except that in Derby you looked over the sand flats out to sea.

The ground foliage from Norseman is very green, to my surprise, but I suppose I did not really know what to expect.

As in other outback regions there were a few areas set aside on the main road for the Royal Flying Doctor Service emergency landing strips. These were marked by roadside signs & normal runway markings on the road.


Tuesday, the 25th

I moved on & visited the "Head of the Bight". Very impressive cliff faces & the scenery along this coastline is very rugged. By now the wind had turned to the south west/westerly but was reasonably light. This area would no doubt do well in the winter months as the whales pass by in close proximity to the coast.

On my way back to the highway I spotted the first Dingo on my trip. He crossed the road not far in front of me & by the time I got the camera out he was among the low scrub.

About 15km west of Nundroo the landscape changed & there was grain being grown & there was an abundance of sheep. I did not expect this so far west but once again I was ignorant to this fact of our countryside. A little to the east of here at Penong there is the grain & sheep but also Gypsum is mined here & trained to Ceduna where it is exported by ship from the local port.

On the outskirts of Penong someone has set up a number of windmills (all shapes & sizes) as part of a local attraction. Right through this area there are a number of windmills supplementing the local water supply. Along the road here there was a grader doing the edges of the road & he was towing his own vehicle (a ute) behind the grader, obviously to get back to his base at night.

I moved on to Ceduna & will stay here for a couple of days & catch up on my domestics & have a look around the town.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Perth to Norseman - 17/11 to 21/11

Monday, the 17th

We all hear about the "Freemantle Doctor" the afternoon breeze (wind) that blows over Perth & surrounds. It is a great selling point but really it is just the "afternoon sea breeze". We could name the afternoon sea breeze on the east coast the "Baffle Nurse". Just a thought.

As soon as I tally up the respective columns I'll list here the relevant costs, mileage, fuel costs, etc up to the time I departed Perth.

106 days on the road
Total distance = 14,766km, without van 4,337km.
Fuel - last fill 14,761km - 2,412.39litres. Cost - $4154.95. Average $1.722/litre
Mileage - 6.118km/litre or 16.354litres/100km

Caravan Parks - 71 nights @ $20.15/night (average) - more nights than I intended
Food & sundry items - @ $ average/day


Today I've made it to Wave Rock near Hyden. As I left Perth I saw the Jacarandas in flower & then passed through some forests & small market garden growing area. Also stone fruits were being grown in one place. I travelled the Brookton Highway & the initial part takes you through the hilly water catchment area. Interesting to note that in this same area there are Warning Signs for "1080 poison baits". Must taste good in the water! We don't forget the abundance of sheep & the paddocks full of grain. Yes sir, we are back in sheep & grain territory. Along the Brookton Highway there is a Dog Cemetery just before you the township of Corrigin. The surrounds are well kept & it is a fitting tribute to man's best friend. It is truely something different.

Today there was no gentle breeze, it was a bloody gale & from the East so I was punching into it the whole way out here. Great for the fuel consumption! On my way here I passed the 15,000km mark for my trip.

Met another Vet, from Bridgetown, WA, who served in Sigs & just happened to be in the same intake. Tomorrow we'll climb the Rock & then move on.

Tuesday, the 18th

Climbed Wave Rock & had a walk around the area, then headed off to Southern Cross. Had about 100kms or so of dirt road but surprisingly it was in good condition with little corrugation. Still plenty of grain about but different scrub line in places & the red dirt starting to reappear. I stopped along the dirt road & let the dogs have a good run up & down the road. Obviously no traffic!

I've ended up at a free camp area called Yerdani Well about 60 km west of Coolgardie. Must be a bit of money in Southern Cross as I saw 2 banks there. On the outside of the town there were a couple of mine sites but I'm not sure what they mined. The water pipe that runs from Perth (I think) to the goldfields follows the road through this region. Leaving Southern Cross the grain started to disappear & has been replaced by scrub. More large semis heading in both directions.

My Army mate from Perth has gone to Geraldton to go out on one of the Navy Frigates to the site of the HMAS Sydney for a Memorial Service on Wednesday. He had a relative on board the ill fated HMAS Sydney. He was praying for fine weather & little wind, good luck, Mal! The tress in Geraldton are on an angle due to the strong winds that prevail in the area & the region is a surf sailor's delight.

Wednesday, the 19th

Surprisingly I was the only one at the free camp area. TJ & Cassie loved it as they were are to run free & not be hindered by their leads.

We left late as we were only 100km short of Kalgoorlie. We passed through Coolgardie & it was an interesting town. In its hey day it was the home to 23 pubs but today there are only 2. It was too early to imbibe! Old buildings are prevalent & Historical Markers are dotted around the town.

On to Kalgoorlie & the Prospector Caravan Park. Good value for money (better than the one in Mandurah, the worst of my trip). I've had a drive around the town & visited the lookout at Mt Charlotte. Here is the original water tank for the towns supply. I also had a look at the Super Pit lookout. What a pit, just enormous! I'll go back tomorrow when I have better light for photos.

I talked to a fellow who did the Nullabor in 2 days, mainly because it rained (showers) all the way over. We have our fingers crossed for better weather.

You will note that I have not mentioned "wind" for the past 2 days & we will keep quiet on that matter & hope that things stay as is!

The sad part of the trip between Coolgardie & Kalgoorlie was the rubbish on the side of the road. The worst I have seen anywhere on my trip. A sad reflection on society!

Thursday, the 20th

Back to the Super Pit with no shade this time plus the Military Museum. Some domestics, shopping & I was ready for a move tomorrow.

Friday, the 21st

I'm off & head for Norseman. Lo & behold I meet up with a couple I tagged with in the northern part of WA. We chat about our recent adventures & then I move on to the Nullabor.

Monday, November 3, 2008

Bruce Rock to Perth - 3/11 to 16/11

Monday, 3rd November

After goodbyes to numerous people I have made my way south to Lake Grace & overnight here. Along the way I've had a look (look only, it wasn't open) at the historic Ardath Hotel & then through Kulin & the Tin Horse Highway. Tin Horse, aptly named as there are numerous "tin horses" in various poses along the side of the road. They have a Bush Race weekend here every October & from all reports it is a great weekend.

According to the billboards, Kulin is the Capital of the Wheat growing region of WA.

So here we go, more grain, more sheep & believe it, more wind!

On to Needilup on Tuesday for a night of free camping & I stopped at a town called Ongerup to watch the Melbourne Cup at the local pub however, would you believe, it was closed as the publican had gone to Jerramungup as their was a TAB there. I listened to the Cup on the radio. On Wednesday I headed for Albany via Jerramungup & Boxwood Hill. After leaving Boxwood Hill the landscape changed with less grain & more Tree Plantations, mainly Pine Trees from what I could ascertain. And now the grapes start to appear & the wineries are open for tastings.

I'm at a caravan park on the King River, a pleasant setting (no doubt in fine weather), about 11km east of Albany CBD. Plenty of ducks etc to keep Cassie amused & TJ thinks an extra breakfast is looming.

There is rain around today (Wednesday), with talk of thunder storms with hail & I was going to free camp tonight but the place I chose was not flash so I kept on & arrived in Albany mid afternoon.

Thursday, the 6th

I will stay here in Albany for a couple of days & look around the area plus catch up with another Army mate. There are still showers in the area & they say they will persist for another day at least. Rain & of course wind & more wind. What's new!

Friday, the 7th

Today is overcast, but hellulah, the wind has dropped, I won't talk too loud.

I've visited Mount Clarence & looked over Albany from above. Very impressive but it would have been better with a sunny day. The Desert Mounted Corps Memorial which stands at the end of a series of steps starting from the lower car park is a recast of the original statue erected at Suez in 1932. The granite blocks are the originals from Suez & bullet marks can still be seen on them. Mount Clarence is the site of Albany's Anzac Day dawn service. The roadway leading to the Memorial is tree lined with plaques beneath the trees remembering those fallen soldiers & it is a sobering reminder to the sacrifices paid by those so others can enjoy the freedom we have today.

Then on to Mt Adelaide & the Princess Royal Fortress. Here is a collection of memorabilia from the Albany Barracks & includes a Naval Display, HMAS Perth Interpretive Centre, Australian Light Horse Museum (10th Light Horse memorabilia), Artillery Display plus restored cottages & barracks which are full of memorabilia.

I've decided to stay another day & leave on Sunday for points westward.

Saturday started off overcast but would you believe it, it has turned fine with some blue sky above & probably it has made it to 21deg. I've had another look around the town & got my domestics done.

Sunday, the 9th

Left Albany & travelled through Denmark, The Southern Forests, Pemberton & on to Alexandra Bridge. Plenty of cattle, the odd paddocks of sheep, of course wineries & timber plantations on this section.

The trip was different in that we travelled through hilly country with forests on both sides of the road in many places. Denmark reminded me of Mt Tambourine, except for the big climb & little Art Galleries, Pottery Houses etc dotted the roadway. Because of the windy roads the usual groups of motor bike riders testing their "skills" were prevalent. The road ran close to the coast for a 100 or so K's then headed inland. Off the main drag & onto Pemberton & more wineries. Some of these had big dams/lakes & some had a pergola that was obviously used for weddings & functions. There was plenty of water about & for most of this day there was water along the road verges so there was the evidence of recent rains.

This region is GREEN, I mean the grass.

Through this region there are a number of small crop farms & many make their way here to pick the crops during the season. Many of these people follow the crop season & are in the process of moving from places like Carnarvon to this region at this time. Pemberton had a big Timber Mill & there were many Tree Plantations along this route as well.

Alexandra Bridge is a camp area south east of Margaret River & is beside the Blackwood River which winds its way to Augusta. There are about another 10 vans/campers/tents here & no doubt in fine warm weather it would be a popular place for families.

On Monday I headed for Cape Leeuwin & checked out the point were the Southern & Indian Oceans meet. Very impressive but $5 per head just to walk on the grounds & extra if you do the tour up the Lighthouse. I've been up the Cape Moreton Light on many occasions so there was no need to do this tour. Just as in many places I've been the predominant interstate vehicles were from QLD.

Back through Augusta & then Alexandra Bridge.

Tuesday I've decided to do the round trip to Cape Naturaliste, Dunsborough, Busselton & Margaret River.

For something different it has been raining since 3am but nevertheless I'm off at 8am. The coast road was lined with trees, B&B's, Chalets, Retreats, Caves, walking tracks & of course the obligatory Winery with a restaurant/function facility attached & overlooking the man made lake. At one point there were about 30 young ones out for their hike along the side of the road. They looked wet & no doubt happy to be out walking!

I was in Busselton just before 11am so went to the Remembrance Day Service. By now it was fine & I was not in need of the coat. The Busselton Jetty juts out for about 2km & has an underwater observatory at the end but I could not leave the "desperates" & explore for that length of time.

Another walk for TJ & Cassie & we take the inland route back to the van. More wine tasting & bottle sales at Cowaramup but alas I'm driving & the drizzle has returned. Margaret River township was quaint & no doubt had the prices to go with it. The price of fuel (unleaded) is around the $1.35/litre mark & is the cheapest I've seen for many months.

I've been surprised at the number of properties for sale & just as equally surprised at the sale prices! Definitely not give away prices! I can only wonder how all the accommodation/restaurants/function facilities exist. Most of the wine must go overseas as we never see the brand names back home (some are familiar though) & the prices at the cellar door are not in the budget range even with the 50% discount sales.

Tomorrow we are off to Bunbury, then Perth & next Monday (17th) we start the trek home.

Wednesday, the 12th

At 10 last night the moon cast shadows through the tree canopy & the stars were visible so one could hope for a fine day today. However, however, however, at 6.15 this morning there were heavy dew drops on the roof of the van. But wait, too consistent for dew drops, ahhh, more precipitation. The radio says more drizzle for today but Bunbury is expected to be fine. We wait with baited breath!

I will probably be whinging soon about it being too hot!! Human nature!!

Sue Road, a back road to the coast, is a better road than many of the Highways I've been on. A sand mining operation was supposed to start in the area but the deal fell through but the road was put in regardless. Many tree plantations line this road as well. Iluka Resources have a sand mining facility south of Bunbury & when I went through a town called Eneabba, south east of Geraldton this same company had more dongas in a camp than there were houses in the town. There was a big sand mining plant outside that town.

The wild life today - A wild Emu crossed the road ahead of me & disappeared into the scrub. In another place I saw cattle & a few emus "grazing" in the same paddock, strange, I'm not sure. In another place there was a large (read LARGE) sitting on a fence post beside the road but I saw it too late & there was nowhere suitable to pull over & take a photograph. During this trip I have seen few wild animals, four legged that is, mainly Emus, a few Donkeys & one dog who was on the road east of Albany. The dog was no relation to "you know who".

I called in to visit an Engineer doggie who I had met at our reunion in Baldivis & was with us at Bruce Rock. I then moved on to Lake Clifton, about 170km south of Perth, late in the afternoon. I had a fish dinner at the Hotel next door while the desperates had "gourmet chicken & rice". Gee they are spoilt! I'll stay here the night & move on tomorrow.

I think it is 40 years today that I returned home from Vietnam.

Thursday, the 13th

I moved to Mandurah & will catch up with a couple of Vets this arvo as well a fellow from the site "Exploroz.com". I have some homework to do & prepare a list of provisions I need to purchase for my next leg. I picked up some XXXX Gold cans (30 pack) for $27 a carton in Albany, a steal! Pity the wine specials aren't as good or maybe I'm not looking in the correct place. Particularly around Perth & suburbs there is a bottle shop on nearly every corner but hotels & clubs don't seem to be a prolific as they are at home. The clubs & pubs don't have pokies so not sure if that has anything to do with it.

There is a radio station in Perth that plays "oldies" & also has "Chicken Man - the white winged warrior" & for those of us who served overseas this serial was always the highlight of our day when we were in camp. A bit of nostalgia. Also beats the hell over talk back radio. The ABC regional stations are great but when they cross to programs emanating from the Capital cities you get some talk back & radio announcers who have an attitude & an agenda. Please, give me a break! Thank goodness for CD's.

Friday to Sunday - 14th to 16th

I spent the weekend at an Army mates' place in Rockingham. Visited my cousin & his family & caught up on my domestics. Relaxing couple of days as it should be except that TJ & Cassie found out how to open the "home dog's" kibble box. Not once but twice they raided it! Oh well, need to go back another day to apologise.