Sunday, December 21, 2008

Walgett to Brisbane

Sunday, the 21st

I wasn't in a hurry to move so after lunch at the RSL I decided I better go otherwise I'd still be there on Monday. Up past Lightning Ridge again & onto the Queensland border town of Hebel. A pub, a Corner Store & a couple of houses & that's it. I decide to have a coldie in the pub & on the walls hang a couple of John Murray's prints. You could spend ages reading all the posters & writings on the walls of a country pub & this place is no different.

I still need to visit the border towns of Barringun, Hungerford & Texas to say that I have visited all NSW/Qld border towns & had a coldie in each place between Cameron Corner & the Coast.

On to Dirranbandi & then Nindigully for the night. A couple of beers at the Pub & then a restful night beside the Moonie River.

Monday, the 22nd

There were not any storms or rain forecast for today so I thought I would have a leisurely run to somewhere near Warwick & camp the night before making the last run to home.

At Goondiwindi I caught up with friends but as they were busy I decided to push on after a short chin-wag. Petrol (unleaded) was scarce here due to a recent problem at the Caltex refinery in Brisbane however I managed to get fuel & then I moved on. I looked at a camping area at the Coolmunda Dam, east of Goondiwindi, but it was too early to stop & there was a hive of activity from many holiday makers who were setting up camp for their own holidays. A top spot & no doubt I'll stay here at another time.

I pulled up at a camp spot on the outskirts of Warwick, had a brew & walked the desperates. It was about 3.30pm & as I was only a 180km from home I made a management decision to keep going. There was a similar problem in Warwick with the fuel but I got some at Cunningham's Gap.

By the time I visited my sister, niece & my Mum & made it home, it was after 8.00pm & our epic journey had come to an end.

Now for the clean up & possibility a return to home life, at least for a short time until I plan my next trip.

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Dareton to Walgett

Monday, the 15th

We got under way in perfect weather conditions & headed for the Murray Valley Highway. This took us through Euston (NSW) & then across the Murray into Vic & along the southern side of the Murray. Through Swan Hill, Kerang, Echuca & then Moama. I intended to catch up with our Pardre from '67/'68 but he has been sick & was not back in Moama. A shame, but I would have kicked myself if I had not called in & he was here.

The wineries were along the way here along with orchards (oranges, mandarins, apples, stone fruits), small vegie crops & olive oil factories.

From Kerang dairy farming took the place of the orchids. There has been up to 2" of rain through most of this area over the weekend & no doubt this has been follow up rain as the region is reasonably green. In many places irrigation channels are controlled by small weirs & the water is taken from the Murray. I was surprised at the size of Swan Hill & of course there were the mandatory paddle steamers & house boats anchored on the Murray. At Echuca & Moama there are numerous paddle steamers & house boats & it is obvious there is a good trade for these products. But don't forget there is no water in the Murray!

Outside Kerang there was a property that was growing "Australian Cricket Willow Plantation". Interesting!

In Moama there are 6 caravan parks & I'm not sure about Echuca. In each park there are a majority of sites with permanent demountable buildings & I'm told many people holiday here for months on end or come here regularly on weekends. The number of ski boats & dingies stored here is staggering, but I forgot there is no water in the Murray so you could not ski, fish or enjoy any water sports. Cynical? not me!

Outside Echuca there was a big swarm of Locust. I understand from news reports that there has been a plague of these pests in this region.

Most of the country from Mildura to here is flat with only a few undulating hills. It reminded me of the area between Hay & Balranald which I covered a few years ago.

Tuesday, the 16th


North of Moama the country was very flat but after leaving Narrandera there was more undulating countryside & I observed mountain ranges to the west, nort west & north east. North of Jerilderie there was the start of The Kidman Way that winds its way to Qld via Hillston & Bourke. Leaving Moama you enter the Riverina & the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area.

I made it to Mirrool late in the afternoon & free camped near the local hotel. The population of Mirrool is less than 100 & includes some of the local families on nearby farms/stations. There was plenty of water in the road verge & from all reports most of this area received 2" of rain over the weekend.

Wednesday, the 17th

I have only covered about 250km today & made my way to Peak Hill. I would like a $1 for every Qld registered vehicle heading south both yesterday & today. A $1 for every semi would also certainly add to the coffers.

West Wyalong, Forbes & Parkes are small townships that are passed along the way & all have a country feel although there is an industrial base that relates to the farming products & machinery that are required throughout the region.

On the edge of Forbes there was the Ben Hall Roadhouse plus in the town there is a statue of Ben Hall.

Thursday, the 18th

Today I head for Dubbo but not before I get a hair cut from the local barber in Peak Hill. For $5 I thought I could not go wrong & in fact is does not look to bad. There are showers about but it is reasonably easy on the road. Once again numerous semis going in both directions & as has been the case over the past 2 days many Qld registered vehicles heading south.

I shopped in Gilgandra & caught up on my grocery shopping & this will do me till I get home. I nearly stayed in Gilgandra but made the management decision to move on to Coonamble. This will make for an easy day on Friday. There are plenty of cattle & sheep in the paddocks & the country side is pretty green as well as water, from recent rain, in the roadside verges.

Friday, the 19th

The overnight at Coonamble was restful & I managed to catch up on my washing before moving on to Walgett after lunch. I'm staying with an old Army mate for the next couple of days. We have the opportunity to go through photos from SVN & whilst we remember most people in the photos there are a few who we do not recognise.

Saturday, the 20th

Today we have a drive around the town & then up to Lightning Ridge. A friend of my mate has an Opal Mine & we go to visit him & his family. We go underground into the mine & it is an interesting set up. Most people have a "claim" of about 50x50 yards & have a "home" on that same block. The "houses" in the mining area range from tin shanties to more substantial structures. The mining area was a real eye opener.

The town itself was interesting with a real diversified population & there were the signs of many European people settled here. The town swimming pool was something to see. It was more like Wet & Wild & beside it there was an indoor diving facility that was of Olympic standard.

We visited the premises of an artist, John Murray & looked at the works he had for sale. The colours were vibrant & the outback he depicted was very real. I didn't purchase anything however if he had a painting of a Dingo I might have been tempted.

I really enjoyed my visit to Lightning Ridge & the Opal Mine & will no doubt visit here again one day.

Tomorrow I start the down hill trek towards home. It is up hill but we won't tell anyone!

Saturday, December 6, 2008

On to Dareton (NSW)

Saturday, the 6th

I moved on in the morning & made my way to Morgan, a town on the Murray River about 120km west of Renmark. Of course I came "the back way" through Port Wakefield, Balaklava, Saddlewoth & Eudunda.

More grain & sheep but with the rolling hills came the vineyards & the olive trees. Not many, but a few were dotted along the way. There was rain/showers on the way & I probably ended up in Morgan more by chance than anything else. There are 400 Scouts here having a Jamboree but they move on tomorrow. I'll probably stay another day & have a look around the place.

In years gone by (1850's onwards) the river port here was the busiest inland port & was an integral part of SA's history. Gangs of up to 50 men worked continuous 24 hour shifts, while 6 trains a day were dispatched to Port Adelaide & long queues of paddle steamers & barges laden with wool, wheat & other goods to be unloaded were a common sight. (I plagiarised that last bit!) There is a vehicular ferry here & from what I see it runs 24hrs. Who said there was no water in the Murray? There's plenty here. We won't go down that path!

Sunday, the 7th

What an interesting place. The old buildings, the remnants of bygone rail & wharf activities plus the numerous House Boats on the river with a rental company just upstream with plenty for rent, make an interesting contrast. Other house boats are tied up outside houses that front the river. Many people were water skiing on the river & the place was full of visitors enjoying the laid back surroundings.

There are a number of locks on the river & they allow more water in some areas than in others. On the outskirts of Morgan there is a pumping station & they pump water to Whyalla. Apparently the water is pumped to a place near Burra & from there it is gravity fed to Whyalla. There are a couple of vehicular ferries that operate locally across the Murray & would you believe, FREE! On my way to Overland Corner I'll make use of the ferry.

Monday, the 8th

I found out that a 6RAR dog handler who I met in Perth lived in Morgan so I went to visit him before I moved on. Alas he was out looking for Yabbies however I had a cuppa & a chat with his wife. Outside the local RSL Hall I also met an ex 3RAR fellow who was in SVN at the same time as yours truly.

I crossed the Murray on the ferry & visited Cadel & then Waikerie, another ferry ride & on to The Historic Overland Corner Hotel but sadly it is closed on Monday so I moved on. Outside Cadel there were plenty of grapes growing along with Oranges. This growth pattern was similar for the next 50 or so km's. Names like Wolf Blass, Oxford Landing & Angrove appeared outside vineyards. Other small crops were growing in some areas along with Almonds, Olives, Mandarins, Peaches etc. More grain crops were splattered on the way & particularly past Renmark as I headed east.

At Waikerie the "Murray River Queen" was moored along with a few more house boats. The MRQ is used for functions & local cruises along this section of the Murray. Waikerie is a pretty town & was a hive of activity with the delivery of the recently picked fruit. Names like Sunland & Nappys which we see on out fruit were prominent on storage sheds. Unleaded fuel here was $1.079/litre.

Being disappointed on missing the Overland Corner Hotel I pushed on to a caravan park beside Lake Cullulleraine. Obviously this is a quiet holiday spot as there is little local infrastructure, only a garage & a few houses. There are 2 parks here & both appear to have little patronage at the moment. We are about 60km west of Mildura so we're in Victoria & another time change has taken place.

It is obvious that I'm back on major highway systems as there are plenty of semis on the go.

Today would have been about the best day, weather wise, I've had since leaving home. Just glorious, but I would still prefer to be at Port Gibbon.

Tuesday, the 9th

It's overcast today with showers forecast but I only have a short distance to travel.

I passed through Mildura but I'll only be 20km away so I'll come back & have a good look later.

I arrived at the Damon Reed Veteran's Retreat in Dareton (NSW) & set up camp before a storm hit. Not too bad mainly wind with rain & a little bit of thunder. This is a restful spot with just a caretaker (a couple) & another couple from WA, just more people for TJ to bark at & someone else to question Cassie's parentage!

Damon Reed was originally from Mildura & was killed in SVN in May 1967 & this establishment is in his memory. The property is about on about 10 acres & has been operational for 3 years. This year they will have had just on 200 vets pass through here in their caravan/motor home etc.

Wednesday, the 10th

A domestic day. Clean the van, do the washing, recharge the batteries, pat the desperates etc. How will they survive back in Thomas Street in 14 days time? Is the street ready for their return? TJ has become about half feral (maybe 3/4) & Cassie, well, some might say she is a complete feral, but we don't necessarily agree.

Today is a fine clear day with a gentle breeze, just the day to laze about.

Thursday, the 11th

Here are my costs after 129 days on the road:

Rodeo 4x4 dual cab, 17'Golf '84 poptop - me & 2 desperates
Total Km 19,091 - last fill 18,820km - 3112.39 litres - $5080.26 - $1.632/litre av
Total km without van - 4773km

Food/beverages/dog food - $24.45/day - budget $20/day
Sundries - $7.40/day - budget $20/day

Caravan parks & donation "parks" - 91 nights @ $20.08/night (budget for the whole trip was 75 nights @ $25/night), so more nights than anticipated

Other costs:
Vehicle service - $270
Mobile Phone - $60/month av
Internet - $59/month

Friday, the 12th

It's raining. A lazy day to had by all, reading, watching a video & dogs are curled up on the couch. Broken Hill, 260km to the north, had nearly 2" overnight & there is water over the road between here & there & north of Broken Hill the roads are cut. They expect rain all day with heavy rain late this arvo or tonight. At least we got a walk in early while it was only light drops!

There has been a break in the weather this arvo so off to Wentworth we went. It's only 12 km up the road & I must admit I did not do enough homework on this region & I've forgotten what I was taught in Social Studies at school. As I drove into Wentworth I crossed the Darling River (plenty of water in it, I observed) & then the sign says "Built where the 2 rivers meet". 2 rivers? The Murray & the Darling, dummy! There is more water, more house boats, more river cruises, more water skiers & more water sports. I always had this belief (or was led to believe) that there was no water in the Darling (as us Qlders took it all before it got to NSW) when it met the Murray & that there was no water in the Murray as it made its way into SA. I don't have my camera so I'll be back to take photographs.

The old Wentworth Goal is now a Historic Site & visitors are allowed. Actually I found Wentworth to be an interesting place.

There are more orchards, more grapes, some small wineries, more "cellar door sales", more dried fruits i.e. sultanas etc to be found locally & hence the name Sunraysia. I'll stay another day to have a closer look at the region.

Saturday, the 13th

Rain & wind prevail, so another lazy day but got my shopping up to date & at night we went to the local Community Club for dinner. I've made a management decision to move on to Moama on Monday as the weather appears to be much improved by then.

Sunday, the 14th

It's still overcast but the wind has abated slightly so I took a drive up through Wentworth & did a circle back to Dareton through Mildura. The circle took us from NSW to Vic & back to NSW. Took photos of the place where the Murray & Darling meet & then on to a weir & lock just downstream from this point. Our next bridge over the Murray was a single lane bridge governed by traffic lights. Actually a number of the bridges over the Murray are small to a degree & often with a part that can be raised to allow boats through.

More house boats, fruit, small crops, vineyards, wineries etc abound through this whole trip. Hardy's Wines, Lindeman Wines to name a couple of the more recognisable wine companies have wineries in this area.

Outside of the townships the "farms" are normally 5 acre blocks & have a 20 gigalitre (spelling?) water licence & big companies buy these blocks to get the water licence. But as we are told regularly, there is no water in the Murray!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Port Gibbon to the Yorke Peninsula

Wednesday, the 3rd

I tore myself away from Port Gibbon after lunch & moved on up through Whyalla, Port Augusta & down the coast to Port Germein for the night stop. I had thought of catching the ferry from Lucky Bay, just north of Cowell, to Wallaroo on the other side of Spencer Gulf but at nearly $350 I gave it a miss.

Half way between Cowell & Whyalla the country side changed from primary produce to mineral products. There were the mountain ranges & names like Iron Baron & Iron Knob spelt out the reason behind the new landscape. Whyalla was industrial & obvious signs of shipping export & past ship building feats were on display. Unleaded petrol here was $1.179/litre.

On to Port Augusta & past an army training facility. Coming in to town you pass the turn off for Coober Pedy & Alice Springs, do I turn left here? No, better not, but gee it was tempting. Petrol has dropped to $1.129 (5cents in 75km). Port Augusta is at the very top of Spencer Gulf & now to proceed down the west coast of this sea mass. South of here is the turn off to Broken Hill & Sydney & it sinks in a little more that this adventure is quickly coming to a close.

I look at the western side of the South Flinders Range & remember my trip up the other side in 2004. Places like Orroroo, Wilmington, Quorn & Hawker readily spring to mind.

Port Germein beckons & I make it there around 6.00pm, just in time to feed & walk the desperates & over to the pub for dinner with the park manager & another couple who were staying in the park. We traded tales of our travels & experiences & a very pleasant evening was had. Port Germein is renowned for the longest wooden jetty in Australia (1.5km long). Another old town with plenty of character. Good fishing, particularly Flathead & crabs are in abundance, so I'm told. Directly to the west of here is Whyalla but separated by "just a little bit" of water.

Thursday, the 4th

Today I head for Moonta Bay, about 160km to the south & nearly opposite Port Gibbon, a bit further to the south to be precise, but on the other side of Spencer Gulf.

Port Perie was an interesting place with obvious old style buildings in the town centre & fringes & the new housing on the outskirts of the town. Further down the coast at Port Broughton I was amazed at the size of the local caravan park. Also many caravans were stored there & possibly to be used by their owners when they were on holidays here? I must try to find out how many caravan sites they have here, just for my own curiosity. The park is right on the water, close to town & I'm told there is good fishing here.

Grain fields & sheep return to the landscape & the harvesting of grain is in full swing.

After checking in to the caravan park I made my way to the local Vietnam Veterans club & meet some of the locals. They have a Memorial to the Vietnam Tracker Dogs & it was dedicated on Anzac Day this year in Memory of their past President who had been a member of 9 RAR & although not a member of a Tracker Team marvelled at the skill of the dogs. A plaque to each of the dogs is mounted on rock from the local Moonta Mine & a centre piece is a Cross, a kennel & a short story on the Dogs. It is very simplistic but very thoughtful & a great remembrance of our "mates". One of the Veterans gives a talk to groups on the life of those Dogs & they have an involvement with the local school. A top effort from these people who had no direct involvement with the Tracker Dogs.

I've contacted the fellow who took on my job once I left Vietnam & will visit him tomorrow.

Moonta is part of the Copper Coast & it gets its name because of the Copper mines that were prevelant here in days gone by. There is still a Copper mine on the outskirts of Moonta.

This arvo the showers came & the WIND returned but there appeared to be a change for the better around dusk so we'll see what tomorrow brings. Unleaded here is $1.089.

Friday, the 5th

Well, well in the early hours of the morning it decided to BLOW. What's new! Everything shook, rattled & rolled.

Went to Port Wakefield & had a look at a satellite tv system, then some shopping in Kadina & onto Wallaroo to visit a fellow who was also in Trackers with us in SVN. Chatted about those who have left us & about what we have been up to for the past 40 years. I really enjoyed our conversation.

Unleaded fuel in Port Wakefield was $0.993/litre while diesel was 40cents/litre dearer. A bit unbalanced!